Donnybrook 1910-1930

The following material is approximately one third of a transcription of those parts of a 114 page manuscript, written by my father before his death in 1994, which may be of general interest for genealogical or historical purposes. He had furnished a copy of this manuscript to the author of "The Real Donnybrook", Richard Lattimore. Mr. Lattimore's work was published in March 1997 by Kamac Publications, Dublin 8. On reading that book, price IR£4.95, I find no acknowledgement of my father's input to this work, but an almost exact transcription of quite a number of passages of his manuscript. While, at best, this could be extreme coincidence, at worst, some might call it plagiarism. Given that the memories of Mr. Lattimore would appear to relate to the forties, I would caution genealogists on placing too much reliance on his "reminiscences", given that these, although probably accurate, may come from somewhat mixed eras. While history is, of necessity, an amalgam of other people's memories and writings, I feel that, even a vague acknowledgement of sources, is, at least, polite. I have expressed myself, in similar terms, to Mr. Lattimore's publishers. More than a year later, as of 8/7/00, no response has been received. My father, with a long experience of the law, might have been less restrained, should he have lived to read this publication on his beloved Donnybrook!

On a more positive note, I would recommend some great historical material from Ken Finlay's now on a new merged Dublin historical site. Ken has taken the trouble to transcribe some early histories and articles on the city. I particularly appreciated Ball's history of Dublin. He has a lot more on Donnybrook plus other Dublin parishes. Other excellent Donnybrook resources are on Robin Elliott's and Mark Humphrys' pages now at a new site. Supplementary pages have been added on the Donnybrook scouts, with many surnames and Donnybrook altar boys, circa 1920 with pictures and surnames.

Architects plans for Donnybrook Church. Source: The Dublin Builder, No.160, 15/8/1866

Growing up in Donnybrook 1910-1930

L. J. Lennan

The Village

Donnybrook, or Domnach Broc (Church of Broc), sometimes written as Dovenachbroc or Donabrok, was a village which it is said was founded about the 8^th Century and sited around a Church built by a Holy Woman called Broc or St. Broc. She, it appears, was one of the seven daughters of Dallbronach of the Desii, of Bregia in the County of Meath, and is mentioned in the works attributed to Aengus the Culdee. This would show her to have flourished about the end of the 8^th or the beginning of the 9^th century. The Village and surrounding settled area was part of the Chieftanry of one named MacGillamocholmog who was responsible to the King of Leinster (Diarmuid MacMurrough). The territory was much exposed to the "Wild Irish", namely the O'Byrnes and O'Tooles, who lived in the mountains and made frequent murderous raids and plundered whatever they could find. Accordingly, Donnybrook, Ranelagh or any part around the perimeter of the City of Dublin was under constant threat of pillage. Many massacres occurred in the area, e.g. Cullenswood (Easter Monday 1209AD) and Thorncastle (a village close to the present Booterstown Avenue in the first quarter of the 15^th Century), are specially mentioned. In pre-reformation days the parish of Donnybrook comprised Williamstown, Booterstown, Donnybrook, Merrion, Simmonscourt, Sandymount, Irishtown and Ringsend. It was sparsely inhabited. In 1615 the Provincial Synod in Kilkenny, reconstituted the parishes and defined their boundaries. In this context, the old Parishes of Donnybrook (including Booterstown), Stillorgan, Kilmacud, Taney or Dundrum, were united and formed into one Parish. During King James' reign public chapels were built in Irishtown and Booterstown. Donnybrook had to wait another century before it had a Catholic Chapel, with residents attending either Booterstown or Irishtown (see annex for Parish Priests). In 1787 the boundary separating Donnybrook from Booterstown was fixed by Archbishop Troy and a site for a church was secured from Lord Downes within the village churchyard, close beside what was left of Old St. Mary's. It sufficed for eighty years. Towards the middle of the 19^th Century, the Parish Priest of Donnybrook and Irishtown, Dr. O'Connell, and his curate Rev. P.J. Nowlan, planned a new church. It opened on 26/8/1866 (minus the spire, illustrated above, which was never added and was converted into a tower in 1913). The transepts were added in 1933. In September 1863, by Act of Parliament, the Parish was incorporated as the "Pembroke Township". The first Census taken after incorporation showed a population of 29 982.

(Note - the source for much of this material is : "History of Donnybrook Parish", by the Most Rev. N. Donnelly, P.P. in a Souvenir Programme for Lecture on Fr. W. Doyle, Gaiety Theatre, 28/1/1934)

Bridge from air (Source and date unknown)

Some topographical details

At the time of the laying of the first stone of Donnybrook Church (26/8/1866), Ailesbury or Eglinton Road were not in existence; Belmont Avenue was known as Coldblow Lane, and the greater part of the road from Upper Leeson St. to the village of Donnybrook, formerly called Donnybrook Rd., became the more fashionable Morehampton Rd.. In the Haddington Rd. district, Raglan Rd. came into existence in 1857 on the conclusion of the Crimean War (Lord Raglan was Chief Commander). Elgin and Clyde Roads (similarly commemorating heroes of the Indian mutiny) were opened in 1863-4 and St. Mary's Rd. (name due to proximity to church), appears on the map for the first time in 1877.

The Fair

Other than the foregoing, little or nothing of any consequence happened in Donnybrook worth recording, save that in 1204 a Fair was established by Royal Charter of King John and later confirmed by Henry III who altered the date of commencement thereof from May 3^rd to any date in July. It was further confirmed by Edward I who, in his turn, fixed the date at August 26^th, to run for 15 days. It seems that all went well for five centuries and then it was stated to have generated into a wild and reckless gathering devoted to all manner of unrighteousness. Efforts were made, particularly by the clergy, to have the Fair suppressed and, in 1824, the Lord Mayor succeeded in having the Fair closed on Sundays. A committee was formed for the purpose of buying out the patent (i.e. the tolls). Eventually, in 1842, Patent Rights and Tolls were sold to a certain John Madden for a sum of £750. Later his sons agreed to surrender the rights for a sum of £3000, which said sum was collected and paid in 1855. However, there was one interested person who had not been consulted, namely Miss Eliza Dillon, the site of whose public house is still known to locals as Dillon's Row and officially known as 'Brookvale Road'. The licensed premises was then facing the Fair Green which now, or lately, is the Ever Ready Garage and Bective R.F.C.. The Ever Ready site and the area immediately surrounding same formed a triangular site owned by Miss Dillon. Miss Dillon, it is said, managed to set public opinion at defiance and maintained a semblance of a Fair for some years longer. The Archbishop, by a public circular in 1850, denounced it, but it continued until 1864, when the Magistrate "for cogent reasons" refused to renew Miss Dillon's licence. A Trust Fund for the erection of a new church, dedicated to the Sacred Heart, on a site overlooking the Fair Green, and in expiation of the impiety which had, for so long, disgraced the Green, was initiated on 12 August 1860 and work commenced on the site on 12 June 1863. The new church, in the vaults of which is buried the remains of Dublin's first Christian Brother Rev. Thos.J.B.Grosvenor who in his later years was ordained and served as curate in the united parishes of Irishtown and Donnybrook (see memorial tablet on wall of Church), was to the design of Pugin and Ashlin Architects and provided for a spire which was never erected. New wings were subsequently added to the original building. The new church replaced the old church of St. Broc, hereinbefore referred to, which, together with the old Church of St. Mary (at an earlier date a new Protestant church dedicated to St. Mary, was erected at Simmonscourt, where it stands today) were both situated in, or beside, the graveyard, and on sites granted therefor by Lord Downes. The old church of St. Broc served the parish for almost 100 years and a granite stone therefrom is incorporated in the extension to the new church. At one time the entire village and its immediate surroundings were owned by the Earl of Clonmel (Lord Downes), but in the late 1880s he disposed of the property in many lots, by way of Fee Farm Grants, reserving to himself and his successors rents from the various lots. The grantee of the largest lot of property, which included the Fair Green, now the IRFU, was one Edward Wright Esq. LL.D.. The grantees of the second largest lot were the Sisters of Charity, followed up by several much smaller lots. The rents reserved by the grants, above referred to, were sold by the then Earl of Clonmel by public auction in June 1933. I am quite sure that the grantees or their successors made sure to purchase the appropriate rent and so make the title absolute. Today it would appear that the Sisters of Charity are the largest property owners in the neighbourhood of the village, Edward Wright's interests having been split up and sold.

Dodder in flood 1950 (Source: Irish Independent, permission granted 27/7/99)

The River

From the waterfall of the Dodder at Clonskea to the main bridge at Donnybrook Road the river proceeds in a straight line for ½ mile approx. The flow is normally leisurely and of an average depth of 12" but when in flood 6 to 10 feet. The waterfall may be described as follows "a large head of water held by a mass of natural rock some 200ft wide and 30 ft deep by 20 ft high at its highest". In normal times the water finds its way down by many small riverlets to the bottom of the fall after a final fall of some 7 ft. sheer. On one side at the top of the fall there was a small building inside of which was a sluice gate and the necessary mechanism. The building was normally closed and was locally known as "Molly Brien's", why I never found out, but I suspect it had something to do with "courting". The sluice gate permitted a controlled flow of water to pass into what was called the mill race. This race was, and is, separated from the river by a rampart of about 120 yards long by 6 ft wide, which stands about 20 ft above the river level. At the end of the rampart (120 yds. from the fall) the race enters the premises known as Brookvale House and I will refer to its further wanderings later.

Let us return to the river which, when in flood, is an awesome sight. At all times there was a very deep hole beneath the fall and, as the rock of the fall was always covered by green slimy moss, it was very risky crossing. But I must confess to having crossed maybe a hundred times and I only fell in once. On that occasion I had to sit on the hot rocks until my clothes dried (how is that for summer?). To go home would mean a good hiding, so the complete story did not emerge. I did not, however, get away with it as my mother scented the Dodder right away and, for some lesser offence, I was confined to barracks next day. I made sure to be so much 'in the way' that I am sure she was glad to see me off the day after. When the river was in flood a local man ["named Reilly" deleted] would get out his net on a long flag pole and sit quite unobtrusively on a particular part of the fall where he netted many fish. If you came near or watched him he would tell you "to get to hell out of it" etc.. On the stretch of river to which I am referring, I have seen brown trout, salmon trout, brown eels and blue eels (both about 18" long). Small eels we called nineyes (about 5" long) and very small eels about 2" long we called "daddy eels". They were caught in handfulls at certain times. In addition there were small fish varying between one and six inches long. We called them redbrests, minnows, loachers (with whiskers), gudgeon and an odd very small plaice about 1 1/2" diameter. In my time, 1916-1924 we had the kingfisher, the dipper and cranes (herons) and, for a time, others on our stretch. I forgot to mention leeches which would enter your foot painlessly and were difficult to remove, as they often came apart when pulled. After heavy rain the river was invariably in flood - which we called a brown flood. The effect of this was to deposit timber, sand, shingle etc. at various well defined points along the river. As these were times of genuine poverty, the timber was eagerly snapped up. The sand and shingle continued to build an island and pockets here and there. Over many years an island had been built up about half way between the Iron and the Main Bridges. It was about 30 ft. long by about 7 ft. wide. In the elbow formed by Donnybrook Rd. and Beaver Row, the sand built up to a height of 4 to 4 1/2 ft and was covered by an evil smelling large leaf plant which grew to a height of about 3 ft. which we used as umbrellas and, I think wrongly, called dock leaves. This sand bank took the form of a right angled triangle the hypothenuse being the river. It extended some 50 yards from the Main Bridge. In summer, which in my time meant at least eight weeks of warm and mainly dry weather, we spent a lot of our time in the river catching small fish by hand and making canals through the island. When the new waterway, or canal, was so made it was essential to ensure that the water would flow through. Accordingly, pieces of wood were placed in it to be lifted by the flow and carried out the other end. To make a canal that failed to raise the boats (pieces of wood) and get them out the other end, when the water was allowed to enter, would merit much jeering and the maker might hang his head in shame.

Here may I refer to certain brothers ["the Kearns" deleted], my contemporaries, who were steeped in river lore but had no love of school where their performance was, to say the least, poor. However, having identified the presence of trout in the river, they could with certainty pick them out, by hand, alive. Whilst leaning over the Iron Bridge ["Arthur"] a brother would suddenly proclaim that he could see the wave of a trout. For months I used to gaze openmouthedly at the river. One day I learned to distinguish the fine patterns of the trout wave from all the flurries caused by the partly submerged stones. This was but the first step, the next being to keep a careful watch until ["Arthur or Paddy"] one of the brothers could take up a position on the river side to determine the exact lay of the trout. I learned from ["Arthur"] them that they knew about four places of deep water (holes they called them) which a trout could occupy upon his journey upstream from the Main Bridge to the Waterfall. I further learned that it was unlikely the trout would reach the fall once ["a Kearns"] one of the brothers had spotted him. I could never catch a trout by hand. The procedure was to observe the position of the sun (if any) and of the trout. It seems the position of the sun determined the side of the river to enter. Small stones were thrown to ensure the trout faced the flow of the water. When these factors were right one of the brothers would enter the river a few yards downstream on the correct side, wade upstream and emerge with their fingers in the trout's gills. It was wrapped in any sort of paper available and taken to the home of a certain invalid on Eglinton Rd. where a spendid price was received for a fresh live trout. It meant to us that the brother concerned and his chosen few could go to the Sandford Cinema (then a single story building) where the music was provided by John Moody. I shall always be grateful to him for introducing me to good music which I did not fully appreciate at the time, but have since learned to love. A visit to the cinema was, however, incomplete without a call to the adjacent fruiterers where, for a few pence, damaged and overipe fruit was bought for eating and throwing. There were always rival gangs who might pick on us inside or outside the cinema. These were the days of a newsreel, follow up, comedy and big picture. Att the end of the show a black box showed about six numbers, taken from the tickets sold that night, and the holders of the lucky numbers won a pass for two for the following week, which had three separate shows: Monday - Wednesday, Thursday - Saturday and Sunday. Some of the artists who immediately come to mind are Ben Turpin, Pearl White, Harry Carey, Tom Mix, Louise Fazendo, Harold Lloyd, Buster Keaton, Jack Holt and Janet Gaynor. I remember an incident concerning an uncle of mine, who for many years had been valet to a well known city businessman [Sir Michael Murphy] and had acquired a commanding presence. He took me to the Sandford Cinema. But there was a snag, he kept on dodging in and out to the Sandford House next door having a few quick ones until he fell asleep and awakened in the middle of the big feature. In a drunken stupor he demanded in a loud voice to see the Stage Manager and continued to do so to everyone's annoyance, until the usher with great tact, took him and me, saying "this way sir", to the Emergency Exit, which opened on to the lane at the side, and pushed us out, without further ado.

However, back to the river and the sand. A tremendous amount of time and energy was given to building caves in the sand. I refer to that sand built up in the "Elbow" already described. These caves were about 4 ft. high when approached from the river, about 2 1/2 ft. wide and about 6 ft. inwards. Each cave was hollowed out by a boy on his own. As far as I remember the best one was made by Joe Ennis and was in an L plan being about 3ft. 6 inches in, with a spur of some 2 ft.. It should be noted that many efforts failed because too much sand was left overhead and the roof collapsed, sometimes with almost disastrous results. But to our parents we were safe playing in the sand. I recollect that on one occasion Jack ["Ward" deleted], who appeared to me to have a mouth from ear to ear bawling to be allowed come along with his elder brother Patrick (much to his and our annoyance), was sent to get Patrick to go to church. Jack was immaculate in his white sailor suit with white canvass shoes. We (including Patrick) decided to hide in one of the caves and Jack, in his hurry, walked on the roof of another cave which promptly collapsed into the river which at that point was 1 1/2 ft. deep. To this day I can see Jack's open mouth from which no sound came, partly filled with water, grass and river sand, as he sat in the water. When the sound got through, I am sure he could be heard a mile away. As, from a swift glance, he was seen to be in no danger of drowning, we disappeared and denied all knowledge of the incident, leaving Jack to explain what he was doing in the river in his good suit. To make one such cave took a few weeks as the only implements available were slates or a sharp stone or, if we were lucky, a piece of steel bed lath which was also used for stabbing eels. From using such a lath for the latter purpose, I learned that the lath did not cut vertically through the water but slewed to one side and, thereafter, I tried to make an appropriate allowance.

In recent years there have been no great floods in the river. In my time the river was in flood almost every time after heavy rain. I am at a loss to understand this. I would have thought that all the building in the catchment area, which entails houses, concrete paths and roads, would reduce absorbancy and, with the blocking of of mill races, would give rise to greater floods. The biggest flood I remember almost filled the "eye" of the main bridge and flooded the "Hollow field", which is now the site of several houses and the skyscraper on "Little Eglinton Rd.". This flood could have been the one which flooded Milltown in 1931 which was declared a disaster area, for the relief of which the late Alderman A. Byrne, the Lord Mayor, established a fund. In my time the three lesees of the Hollow field were Pearson, Harmon and, lastly Plunketts. The bungalow "Dunbar", near the iron bridge, was built by a Mr. Hayden on what was called the embankment, which was used to contain the river in flood. This embankment was constructed from the clay removed by the Pembroke U.D.C. to build Harmony Avenue and Villas in the 1904 - 10 period. It continued half the way above the river bank from the Iron Bridge to the Main Bridge. The site of the skyscraper was a pretty level plateau in which about eight trees grew. None were of any substance. The plateau was out of character with the rest of the field and most likely was constructed from the clay removed in connection with the construction of the main bridge.

The Troubles

What comes to mind about the period is, from about the second day of the rebellion, a queue of women and children, each carrying a white pillow case or slip, awaited bread (whole or broken) outside Johnston, Mooney and O'Brien's bakery at Ballsbridge.

Donnybrook Bridge was a searchpoint from 1916 onwards. When there was an ambush, or suchlike, in town, the army would put a barrier across and search pedestrians and vehicles. Camden St., Redmonds Hill, Aungier St. were called "the Dardanelles". It was very densely populated and, I can't help thinking, how much like Anderstown, Ballymurphy today it might be in terrain and tactics. The barrier was on the Stillorgan Rd. (which reminds me of the saying "all to one side, like the town of Stillorgan", there being no houses at one side then). We picked up at least six revolvers and several can of bullets from the river beneath the bridge over the years, where apparently they had been dropped into the river before the search. These we played with and used to carefully hide away because, on one occasion, one of our number found what appeared to be the leg of an armchair with a ring in the end of it. He was bashing it off the rocks in the river to get the ring off. A tram conductor, looking from the bridge, told him to stop, and get away at once, and proceeded to come down from the bridge and took the thing into the tram shed. We observed, by climbing the wall at Beaver Row that he had no difficulty in opening it, wherein lay a revolver. We shouted at him but were chased off by other men. From then on, whatever we found was ours. In hindsight it seems stupid to search on the Main Bridge only and ignore the Iron Bridge (where incidentally we never found anything of a military nature) but I suppose "orders is orders". In or about 1922 a notice appeared on the board at the Police Station saying, we believed, that a reward would be given for all arms handed in. One day we decided to collect what we had hidden away near the river, at least six revolvers, one sword, two bayonets and several carbide cans filled with bullets small, medium and very large (about 9 inches). Some of the medium bullets had four cuts in the silvery part. Having draped ourselves, to make our equipment as obvious as possible, and with the revolvers stuck in our braces, we marched to the police station, much to the astonishment of the passers by. When we arrived, we were ushered into a sparsely furnished room and told that the man who dealt with the rewards was out. Pending his return, a list of the articles would be made and our name and address taken, so that, if a reward was payable, they would let us know. The only thing that happened was that our names got around the village and my parents gave me a hiding for having such dangerous things. They never knew that many a bullet had been sent on its way from between two large stones by striking the cap with a sharp small stone.

My experiences as a child in the 1916-21 period were not at all like the romantic tales now written. It seemed to me, then and now, more a cat and mouse afair. My first sight of the British Army was when they arrived and halted for a rest at Little Eglinton Rd. where they stacked their rifles (in threes, I think) and sat on the ground. We played in and out through the rifles. They were a jolly lot of men and the local women of all classes and creeds, most of whom had husbands, sons or relations in France, took pots of tea to them. Unfortunately for us they were moved on after an hour or two.

I cannot say with certainty when the dozen or so soldiers came to the tramshed (now the bus garage) to man a checkpoint on the bridge, but to us kids they were welcome. They used get us sing rebel songs "Kevin Barry", "Thomas Traynor", "First they wore the khaki" etc. and reward us with biscuits and sweets. They were all young men, about 17 or 18 years and fond of football. They would pick two teams (half of them and half of us on each side) and, when the match was over, we would all go to what they called the field kitchen and have a good tuck in. We were normally upset when there was a change in personnel until we sounded out the new lot. I must say that I, or my friends, never found anything objectionable about them and, as regards local feeling, a friend of mine recalls seeing a local boy in the uniform of the Royal Flying Corps playing cards with the other men in the Tram Depot. During the curfew period, everybody (save essential workers with passes) were to be indoors by 8 or 9 p.m., I am not sure which. In any event we took little notice of it because we played in the hollow field, or thereabouts, in winter. The searchlight on top of the armoured car could be seen when the patrol was at "Montrose" (Major Kelly's residence), now R.T.E.. Sight of the light, as it was turned about, was our cue to go indoors (anybody's house) until the patrol had passed. It is hardly believable now, but the rattle and pounding of the solid tyred lorries of the patrol also gave warning of its approach. Sometimes the patrol came down from Roebuck, via Beechhill and Beaver Row. On one such occasion, we were playing cards in the hollow tree, which stood on the Harmony Villas side of the river opposite the Parochial Hall in Beaver Row, forgot about the curfew, and, in the event, that happened nearly lost our lives. First, I must explain that the Hollow Tree was some 4'6" diameter at ground level, tapering off to about 4 ft., at about 10 to 12 ft., where it would appear to be capped off by the bark. It had a triangular opening at the base (about 20" at ground level and with an apex of about 26"). We had discovered some years earlier that the whole inside was of spongy wood which was easily removed. We had hollowed it out up to the top or cap referred to. There were however a number of places where the bark jutted inwards. These we used as grips and steps. At about 10 ft. or so there were, at one time, two large branches, the larger of which would have pointed towards the Parochial Hall, and had fallen away, leaving a gaping hole. The other branch, that pointing to Harmony Villas, was still in position and, to our delight, was only a matter of inches from the telephone wires, to which we promptly attached a cocoa tin. We had already made a floor, complete with trap door, some 6 ft. up in the tree, using the ingrowing irregularities of the bark as a foundation. Thus we had a room with phone and a window overlooking the river (curtained by a sack). We used candles for lighting. I, as an altar boy, used help the clerk to close the Church and, before finally locking up, the candles on the shrines were extinguished and thrown in the waste holder. Some, however, were retrieved. I justified myself by saying that they would have been thrown out anyway.

On the occasion mentioned, we were immersed in a game of 'beggar my neighbour', or suchlike, that we completely forgot about curfew, when suddenly a ray of light played on and through the sack and at the same time a bayonet tore away the sack and we were commanded to surrender. We were frightened and did not know what to do. Some one whispered "put out the candle". This we did, remaining completely silent. It was impossible to enter the window, having regard to the angle of the tree over the river wall. To scale the truck in army boots was almost impossible. Accordingly we could hear the shouts of frustration etc.. However, after a few minutes (like hours) all seemed to die down and we thought they were gone; instead they had requisitioned a ladder and awaited its arrival. The whole episode could be seen from the houses in Harmony Villas. It appeared that there was one armoured car and two lorries of soldiers. Later a ladder arrived. In the meantime we had started to move. I was first to emerge from the triangular hole which I have earlier described. Such emergence was made feet first, backwards. As I came out I heard a soldier proclaim in a broad English accent "Good Christ, look at this little arse coming out here". One of them roared at me to go home. I didn't need any encouragement. I assume the others met a similar fate. It appears our candle was spotted by the patrol from Beaver Row and it looked like they were on to something big. I resolved never to remove blessed candles from the Church again.

The Fields

To be allowed to go out to the fields one had to satisfy the leader with regard to 1. running, 2. climbing, 3. taking cover, 4. obedience, and 5. giving no names. The leader was one who had gone many times and knew the crossing points from one property to another and special risks as to baliffs, dogs, etc.. Not more than five were allowed and it was considered an honour to be selected. A start was made at Beech Hill Gate, where two at a time slipped by the gate lodge (now demolished) and kept well clear of the lawn, keeping close to the wall boundary of Tram Terrace, the quarry (now bus garage), the plantation "Shamrock Hill" etc. passing the walnut trees and, on the opposite side, the Beech Hill Mansion House, together with out-offices, cattle and sheep pens, farmyard, slaughter house, orchard etc. and on through a line of tall trees, some of which still stand today, to the football field (at one time Loyola R.F.C., a predecessor of Old Belvedere, played here), continuing on through a much larger field, bounded on one side partly by a lawn, which originated opposite Montrose and which served as an entrance to several mansion houses and emerged again in Roebuck beside one of the present entrances to U.C.D.. The lawn was called Roebuck Grove and the field to which I refer was called "The Bens", so called because the local Gaelic team "the Benburbs" played there many years earlier. Passing on, Benson's fields were entered. Benson's occupied the first mansion on Roebuck Grove from the Stillorgan Rd. side and a detour was made to avoid the house. A further detour had to be made, via Carless's three cornered field to enter Tutty's, in which was situated the "Fairies Dew", i.e. a small hillock, overgrown with scrub and small trees, where grouse were to be seen. We spent little time in Tutty's as it was supposed to be patrolled by the bailiff. At that time my idea of the bailiff was that he was half man, half giant, who could run and jump like a hare. Many was the nightmare I had about him but I dare not refuse an offer to be taken to the fields. From Tutty's we went on to Westby's (Roebuck Castle), the earliest record of which, according to a recent sale brochure, dates back to the 11^th Century when the lands were called Rabo or Raboge. They were reputed to include the village of Clonskeagh and its Iron Works (in my time called Henshaw's and later the Red Hand Ironworks). In 1154 the lands were granted to Thomas de St. Michael and, passing to one David Bassett, came into the possession of the LeBrun family. In 1689 the castle was occupied by King James II and the Duke of Berwick when they had their camp in the neighbourhood. The writer would like to know where Clonskeagh Castle, which is within a half mile from the ironworks, and whose entrance gate is within 200 yds. of the works, and which Castle is built on a prominence overlooking Milltown, and through whose grounds a spur of the Stang River flows emerging via an aquqduct (locally called "Day-K-dock") to feed the mill pond of the Ironworks, comes into the picture.

From Westby's we would proceed to Sir John Lynch's (Belfield) and Major Hume Dudgeon's (Merville) to Foster's Avenue. On an odd occasion, depending on the time, we would scale Mt. Merrion Walll, cross the estate, and come out on the road near Kilmacud Church. Fruit and wild flowers were the only victims of all these walks. A person knowing the area first mentioned (Beechill to Foster's Avenue) will now recognize it as about 70% U.C.D., 15% Religious, 10% Dublin Corporation and 5% Miscellaneous. I must once again stress that, other than trespassing and the odd piece of fruit for immediate consumption, litlle injury was inflicted.

Childhood in the "Brook" was simple yet full and gratifying as we enjoyed the best of city and country, trams and cinemas, haymaking and getting in the crops, cattle, sheep, horses etc. and yet were only three miles from the city center. Most boys went barefooted for about five months of the year (May to September, included) and quite a few never bothered about shoes at all. It was a golden rule of Donnybrook Boys National School that no boy was allowed to wear boots or shoes at school during the summer months (outside the six weeks holidays). I, and many others who were sent to school with shoes, had to hide our shoes in the chapel grounds before going in. Mr. O'Kelly, whose rule it was, was blessed with I believe thirteen children. He justified his decision by saying we had a concrete yard and that our feet would not wear out. He has been proven right. Five of my contemporaries with whom I am in touch never had a foot complaint. During the school holidays we were sometimes fortunate enough to be allowed to go by horse and float to Woolworths, Chatham St. entrance, to collect a load of straw. After helping to load the straw we would sit in amongst it and search all the way home to Beechill for small glass ornaments or such like which had not been removed. We were frequently lucky.

On the farm

We spent a lot of our time at the farm at "Beechill". The activities there were many and varied. For some we got paid and some abused and beaten. I will explain the layout of the premises. From the entrance gate there was a carriage way proceeding uphill in the form of a large curve about 1/2 mile long. It had a border of large stones, about 8 ft. apart, which had to be whitewashed every week. At the top of the curve a major portion proceeded to the main door of the Mansion House where it broadened out. A minor portion bore to the right where it turned to a cobbled path, passing between a row of outbuildings and cattle pens and a large rectangular manure pit into which all manner of decaying matter (animal or vegetable) was dumped until the contents were required for use in the orchard or for top dressing the meadows. The remainder of the outbuildings consisted of a number of pens and lofts together with a slaughter house, toilet and yard in which there was a large iron cauldron mounted on a brick built furnace. This contained animal food and seemed to be perpetually on the boil. The smell from it was most appetizing and we used to warm and clean our hands in it in winter time. The contents varied, but I do remember the following: small potatoes and apples, cabbage leaves and stalks, mangolds and turnips, grains and wash. The grains came in large red carts and the wash in carts with a large red barrel permanently mounted which brought these commodities from "Guinness" or "Powers". To the contents unwanted entrails from the slaughterhouse were often added. The yard etc. was totally enclosed by a large arch and doors. Outside, there were many pigsty's, each containing three pigs. The stys were such as to restrict the movement of the animal to a minimum. About four of us performed such duties as whitewashing the stones, mucking out (no hoses then), renewing bedding and fodder, picking stones etc. after top dressing, trampling hay in hayloft, cutting mangolds in a huge mincer, penning sheep for slaughter, lining up cattle for pole-axing and anything else the butchers told us to do, under penalty of being barred from the place. Of these duties the only one we were paid for was picking stones, and the pay was one shilling each. The meadow was about 12 acres and the field rectangular in form. We were given a bucket and told to stand at arms length from each other and to maintain this distance all the time, walking the length of the field and picking stones or other foreign matter as we went. This involved many such walks and I suppose the total walked was about eight miles. We had been forewarned that no payment would be made if an inspection showed poor work.

[Material on mangold mixer, penning sheep for slaughter, the slaughter, haymaking with horses and floats pps. 29 -32 considered of relatively limited interest to genealogists]

Donnybrook Village

In the year 1888 Donnybrook was described [Source partly likely to be Thoms Directory of that year] as follows: "Donnybrook, a village of the same name situated upon the river Dodder and 2 1/2 miles from the G.P.O. on the road to Bray. The Dodder is spanned by Anglesea Bridge built in compliment to a noble of that name while Viceroy in 1830. The village consists of a Main St. with a few avenues and lanes leading off. There is a Fair Green. The parish church "St Mary" at Simmonscourt was built at a cost of £3000. The new Roman Catholic Church occupies a prominent place and was designed by Pugin and Ashlin Architects. It is of granite and Bath stone and cost about £6000. There is a Magdalen Asylum and a Dispensary Hospital for Incurables. A Lunatic Asylum is called the Bloomfield Retreat. There are schools of the Erasmus Smith Foundation and one attached to the Roman Catholic Church.

In alphabetical order the village consisted of:

Ailesbury Rd. (48 houses), Beaver Row (2 Dairies, 1 Grocer, 1 Protestant School, 20 small cottages), Beechill Rd. (a small lane on Stillorgan Rd., now extinct, opposite St. Andrews grounds which led to Beechill House, the entry to which was changed to Beaver Row, as it is today), Belmount Ave. or Cold Blow Lane (12 houses and National School), Belmount Tce. (7 houses), Brookfield Tce. Simmonscourt Rd. - now Anglesea Rd. (26 houses), Brookvale Rd. (2 houses and Millmount House - the Convent), Bushfield Place (3 small cottages), Bushfield Tce. (11 houses), Carlisle Ave. (18 houses), Doyle's Cottages - the Hollow Beaver Row (12 small cottages), Eglinton Rd. (25 houses), Eglinton Tce. (10 houses), Floraville Cottages (2 cottages), Floraville Rd. (3 houses), Harmony Avenue (4 houses), Marlborough Rd. (105 houses), Marlborough Tce. (2 houses), Morehampton Rd. (110 houses), Morehampton Tce. (19 houses), Seaview Tce. (7 houses), Simmonscourt Ave. (1 house), Simmoncourt (Protestant Church and 7 houses), Simmonscourt Villas (6 houses), Smith's Cottages (13 small cottages), Stillorgan Rd. (Donnybrook Postal District, i.e. up to Montrose, Roman Catholic Church and 10 houses).

Donnybrook Rd. (the Main St.) consisted of dwellings and shops. The shops were as follows:

(Belmount Ave. side): 19, 19A L. Brown (Grocer, Post Office and Savings Bank), 21 Jas. Bryan (Car and Cab owner), 31 Wm. Field (Victualler), 33 Wm. McDowell (Glass), 37 Ed. Nowlan (House painter), 41 John Fegan (Grocer and purveyor), 45 Police Station, Graveyard, 51 Wm. McAuley (Grocer), 52 Laurence Wall (Bootmaker). Now cross the street to the other side and retrace

54 & 56 Mrs. A. Bannon (Draper), 50 Jas. Stuart (Bootmaker), 48 Con Kennedy (Grocer, tea, wine and spirit merchant), 46 Robt. Dawse (Draper), 42 Patk. J. Tracey (Building Contractor), 36 Charles Cruise (Plumber), 34 Mrs ("Cash") Doyle (Provision dealer), 28 Geo. H. Findlay (Draper, stationer, newsagent), 22 & 24 Con Kennedy (Tea, wine and spirit merchant).

In addition to the shops in the Main St., as above, there were shops on the Marlborough Rd. side of Morehampton Rd. as follows:

Corner of Marlborough Rd. No. 69 Jas. Delany (Greengrocer and fruiterer), 71 Miss B. Devereaux (Confectioner), 73 & 75 Wm. Ahearn (Grocer, tea, wine and spirit merchant), 77 Wm. McGarvey (Grocer), 79 Ml. Cullen (Victualler), 85 Wm. Ahern (Grocer), 101 Ben White (horseshoer), 133 J. Newport (Grocer and spirit dealer) on the corner of Belmount Avenue (now Madigans and renumbered 135). We now enter the Main St. and, after passing White's Cottages on this side we meet the first of the shops referred to earlier (viz. Nos. 19 and 19A).

Donnybrook c.1918

(Source: W.D.Hogan original print. Most of the remaining 120 or so, apart from those of family interest, entrusted in 1997 to the National Library Collection)

The Village in my time

Coming from town, the first shop on the right was McElhinneys, a chemist on the corner of Marlborough Rd.. At the time the chemist had shelves upon shelves of golden labelled bottles containing multicoloured liquids with what appeared to be Latin names. In addition there were numerous drawers containing powders etc. from which the Chemist prepared, in your presence, the bottle or pills as prescribed. He used a mortar and pestle to grind up some of the substances he used and, sometimes, he prepared a dough from which he made pills. There was complete silence whilst he worked and you were completely overawed by the solemnity of the whole operation. I must not forget the two large bottles of coloured liquid which graced the window. Packaging was no problem then. The liquids came in standard bottles marked 'The Mixture'. The pills or ointment came in a raffia round box and the powders in ever-diminishing folds of paper. All items of the pre-packed variety (i.e. those not being made up on the premises) were available from Druggist's shops at very reasonable prices. The nearest druggist to Donnybrook was in Lr. Baggot St.. They were eventually wiped out by legislation, I think.

I now give a list of the shops in the village in my time. Some changes which took place, as I noted them in short visits are included.

Starting at Morehampton Rd

Main St., Police Station side

Main St. (Pembroke Cottages side)

At the rere of Breens, there were ruins of some old cottages and a big house called "Brooklawn" which is in good shape.

The foregoing was compiled largely from recollection and will, no doubt, be found wanting in many respects, but the names, as far as they go, are accurate.

All of the shops in the village were residential and on the Main St. there were as many private residence as there were shops. The Police Station had one unusual feature. It was the only place drink could be had when every place else was compelled to close, so to many, it was important to have a friend in the Force. There were two men's clubs, the A.O.H. and the C.Y.M.S., the former being more the haunt of older men whose activities were cards, billards, tontine clubs, etc.. The latter held dances, whist drives, concerts and such like. I think the famous "Brendan Players" had their origin there.

Transport

A friend of mine described the shape of the village as being that of a dog's hind leg and he wasn't far out. That being so, it affected the speed of the trams making it possible to board and leave the tram whilst it was in motion, which many did. The service was excellent. Everybody knew the drivers, or motorman - so called officially- and conductors. They, in their turn, knew when and where to expect their passengers and did everything to facilitate them. It is recorded that in 1850 a collection was made for the nine drivers and conductors. It realized the sum of £6 odd, which gave a sum of 7s 6d to each. A service that wasn't generally known was that of the Tramway's Parcel Express. This covered all the areas served by the trams. Transfers were arranged to take place mainly at the Pillar (Nelson's) and were collectable at the appropriate tram depot. A handcart was kept for delivery of parcels within a reasonable area.

When someone was really drunk ("footless" we called it), the tramway hand cart was brought into service by some of his co-drinkers and, after much stupid discussion and argument as to the manner of the lift and the positions etc. to be taken by the lifters (most of whose energy was already being fully utilized in maintaining a standing position), the recumbent body was, after a few failures, edged over the side of the handcart. The reader may not know it, but a handcart, when being loaded, has a habit of moving, and it is unwise, to leave one's feet near the wheels when the weight goes on. I have little doubt that this accounted for many of the unmerciful roars and oaths etc. which were heard on such occasions. As often as not the victim was deposited face down on the floor and, as he was wheeled away, his cap, or anything else which had fallen from his pockets, was thrown in on top of him. The publican, looking from his bedroom window, was relieved to see them go. All those who had helped in the lift etc. were entitled to have a hand on the handcart but the unfortunate one between the shafts had to do the pushing. This was made more difficult by the others leaning on it. Nearing the house of the victim a strict silence was observed until he was roughly unloaded, together with his personal belongings, on to his own doorstep and a rapid retreat was made. The wife or relative who had already been informed by a 'good neighbour' of the position, played her part well, and did not emerge until perhaps hours later when the spectators had gone, the final trial being conducted 'in camera'. Returning to the parcels, Hume-Dudgeon already referred to, had a spendid service from us kids because he used to reward the bearer of a parcel. As far as tramway occupations were concerned, the obscure post of 'ticket picker' should be mentioned. All conductors were ticket pickers for a period of time before being allowed to practise as a conductor, under the supervision of another. In addition to collecting fares and conducting the tram, the conductor changed the destination sideboard, as well as changing the front and rear destination rolls. For this a brass key was carried on one of the conductors shoulder straps. When the destination was reached, the boards, rolls, trolley were adjusted and the dickey seat (a seat at the back of the closed door at the motorman's end) was changed over as appropriate to facilitate the reverse journey. In the meantime, the ticket picker, had picked all tickets, waste paper etc.. We kids had one futher use for the tram - to flatten washers etc. to suit the chocolate slot machine.

About this time (early twenties) motor cars were getting popular in the "Brook". The petrol pump at Cahills (No. 21 Main St.) was one of the wonders of childhood. It stood like a fat street lamp on the edge of the path about 8 ft. high and 2 ft. in diameter. It had a glass head with markings on it. When the handle on the side was moved to and fro, the petrol was pumped into the glass head from the bottom of which a flexible hose protruded. This hose was placed in the neck of the car tank and when a certain lever was activated the petrol flowed by gravity to the tank. Shell, Pratts, Mexican Eagle & B.O.P. seemed to be the brands available in the area. There were two garages: Cahills and Breens. Cahills was largely a repair garage. Breens, which appeared to have a better class clientele, sold mostly new cars.

Music

I remember some names at concerts organised in the C.Y.M.S. Hall. These included Leo Redmond and the Austin Stack Band, the Forde troop of dancers, the Donnybrook Fife and Drum Band, whose magnificent ebony and silver staff I last saw at the Scout Hall in 1970. My recollection of the latter band was that although they had few tunes, their rendering of those they had was excellent. The outstanding figures, as far as I was concerned, were the band master, La La Kane, the triangle player Ducky Greene, and "the Rock" Connor, who was the leading drummer. The band room was conveniently situated at the rere of Long's Pub and was noted for its games of "house", which were identical to "bingo", but then illegal. On special occasions the band sailed forth, much to the delight of all Donnybrook. The usual route was through the village, down Brendan Rd. and Argyle Rd. to Herbert Park Rd., returning via Morehampton Rd. to the village. It was thirsty work judging by the dash into Longs. The tunes played never varied and, as far as we knew, had no words. We used to follow the band, la-laing all the way, to the obvious annoyance of the band master. He used to suffer on whilst the band was on the Main Rd., but when it got into Brendan Rd. he would suddenly make a run at us with the staff and we would flee in all directions, to return again later. His manoeuvre had no effect on the band. It played on. He was a well-built man, standing over 6 ft. high and of military gait. He handled the heavy staff as if it were a small cane. The tune, I now know to be Colonel Bogey, was perfect for la-laing and, unfortunately for the band master, it was part of the band's limited repertoire.

Last, but not least, there was the Donnybrook Scout Pipe Band whose members won hundreds of pounds in prizes in open competition from which they renewed and added to their equipment and paid their own expenses. They had the unique privilege of being the only Pipe Band allowed to play in the precincts of the grotto at Lourdes and also in the Vatican Square. They were invited to, and played in, Brittany and the occasion was recorded in the Dublin dailies and was accompanied by a fine marching photograph. They won the bronze medal at the Tailteann Games and did tremendous work in promoting the Catholic Boy Scouts of Ireland all over the country, mainly at their own expense. In addition they had a spot on Radio Eireann when the studios were at the GPO.

[Two page description from p. 45 of the annual Donnybrook Concert - producer Mr. Loran of Home Villas]

Sport

The earliest was, I gather, Gaelic football as played by the "Benburbs" a local team before my time. But I do remember seeing a later team, the "Desmonds", in action during the "Donnybrook Fair Bazaar" (1920-1923) held in aid of Church funds to pay off debt and have the Church consecrated. I also saw many other teams in what they called a Tournament, e.g. Round Towers, Milltown Emmets, Erin's Isle, Isles of the Sea, Sons of Erin, Ballyboden Kickhams, etc.. The Fair and football matches took place at Beech Hill. All the usual quick money-making efforts were there, "Harp, Crown & Feather", "Black & White Squares", "Fortune Telling", "Marquee Dancing", etc.. Another form of sport in the Brook was "quoits" - a throwing game. It took place in the band of Nutley Lane (now Avenue) about one third of the way towards Merrion Rd.. "Tug-of-war" contests (nothing to do with the Church funds) were held in a field at the left hand side of the top (Clonskeagh end) of Eglinton Road after the pubs closed on Sundays. [etc. on the event]

Rugby was always well represented, as it is today, in Donnybrook. We had, and have today, Bective and Old Wesley. I remember "Loyola", the forerunner of "Old Belvedere", who now play at Anglesea Rd., playing at Beechill. Soccer was played by junior teams like "Alton", "D.A.B.S", "Harmony Rovers", etc. and many juniors were picked to play in senior teams. I will mention but a few in my time: Delaney, Doyle, Westby, McLoughlin, Grimes, McCarthy, etc.. Hockey was played at Muckross for as long as I can remember. Badminton, billards and hurling were played, but not to any great extent. Cricket was, and continues to be played by "Merrion" at Anglesea Rd.. Lawn tennis was played, as long as I remember. I am sure the Donnybrook L.T.C. on Brookvale Rd. must be one of the oldest in the country. Bowls was played on several private greens of the well-to-do in the area and has latterly been played in Herbert Park. I remember people ice skating on the frozen pond in Herbert Park, but in recent years there has been little heavy frost. In the time of which I write the lake would remain frozen for weeks. From early June to late September groups of boys of all ages could be seen walking along Merrion Rd., clutching what went for a towel and nicks, on their way to the sea wall at Booterstown-Williamstown. Most of the younger ones went barefooted. As to local swimming, if one stands on Donnybrook Bridge and looks along the concave curve of the river as it flows at the rear of Brookfield Tce. on Anglesea Rd., around the Rugby pitches, one will observe that there appears to be little or no movement of the water in the middle of the curve. This section had deep water and two holes which always contained about 6 ft. of water. They were known to local lads as "The Sparrow" and "The Wren". During hot weather, bigger boys would bathe in the "sparrow" and smaller boys in the "wren".

Class, illness and survival

Donnybrook was an area of positive divisions: namely the rich and the working class. The people gave little thought to this and accepted their position on the ladder. I do not remember any envy or animosity against the rich. In fact the greatest of reciprocal respect prevailed. In almost all cases of severe illness, necessitating in-hospital treatment, it was the note of the rich (subscriber) which granted the "free treatment". It will be noted that this was the time of the Voluntary Hospitals, which were supported and, in many cases, manned by the rich and their families while their housework was carried out by paid servants. It should be noted that a doctor's visit to a patient was a rare sight and the chemist's livelihood depended on the efficacy of his cough bottle, opening medicine (black jack) or ointments. When fever was rife the sick cab (we called it), a horse drawn vehicle, was to be seen around. The difference between it and an ordinary cab was, as far as we were concerned, that it was impossible to "scut" it, i.e. you could not sneak a ride on the back axle as, in order to facilitate a prostrate patient, the cab body was specially constructed to cover the back axle. Dental hygiene was unheard of save for the soot and salt mixture for cleaning teeth. My recollection is that Mr. Cooper a registered dentist fulfilled the local needs. Ninety percent of his practice was extractions at 2/- a tooth. I should point out that it was possible to obtain the same service from a dentist in Warrington Place at 1/- per tooth with no appointment.

If I may return to the rich, I knew of cases where the bright child of the poor was given secondary and university education. I also remember that, where a hospital note was given, a follow up enquiry was made regularly. Many city centre families earned a meagre living by collecting jam jars, bottles, and rags, and I mean rags, on a barter system. It was a rare transaction in which money passed. Mostly it was coloured balloons and windmills, the latter being made by the purchaser or his family from a piece of wood, a pin, two pieces of cardboard and some coloured tissue paper. The tissue paper was also used to make hats for sale to the fans coming to Croke Park and such like. When Down was in the match it was difficult, as the slogan on the hat read "Up Down". Bundles of firelighters (pieces of chopped timber) were made and sold as were coal blocks (cement and slack). Fish hawkers and such like wheeled their basinets, complete with baby, all the way from the fish market to such places as Milltown and Donnybrook. Despite the great poverty, begging was illegal. As a result there were lots of singers, jugglers, dancers on their own boards, electric shock machines, mouth organists, dancing dolls, banjos, melodians and instruments of all kinds, including dulcimers, barrel organs, with or without a monkey, a live bear dancing, birds to tell your fortune, top class violinists and a concert harpist. On no account must I forget the lavendar man, whose presence was detectable from afar. There was of course the slick merchant who, having left his horse and cart in a busy place not too far away, sent his representative who made a really good offer of delft for rags and took them to the cart. On his return, however, he had reappraised his offer leaving the vendor the option of acceptance or retrieving his rags from the others on the cart in the full view of neighbours. In almost all cases the new proposition was accepted.

There was no dole and work of any class was much sought after and, in almost all cases, found. The more modern ideas of fulfilment or job satisfaction did not arise. But this did not mean that one ceased to better oneself.

A woman's life was extremely hard. Most cooking was done on the fire (there being few gas and no electric cookers). In the main, light was provided by oil lamps and candles. Donnybrook was, however, fortunate in that an electric lighting supply was provided to most houses by the Pembroke U.D.C.. The washing was done by hand. There were no vacuum cleaners or other household aids and a lot more patching, mending and polishing was required. Clothes had to be altered to be passed down the line. Families were much bigger and the management of the small amount of available money difficult. Women rarely went out to work and then only out of sheer necessity. Generally their working hours were 7 a.m. to midday. The working hours as a rule for men were from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. with an hour's break for lunch (normally a pint of porter and a home made sandwich).

School

School hours were from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. with a half an hour's break for lunch (usually between 12.30 and 1 p.m). My lunch usually consisted of a medicine bottle (1/4 pint I think) of milk and bread,butter, margarine or dripping sandwiches, perhaps plum or apple jam, if lucky. The school, which was built on 1870, was adorned by a large painted board which bore the words "Donnybrook Boys' National School". From this we thought it very smart to take the letters brook and the word school to make the following: "Brennan ran out on Kelly. Sheeran caught him on one leg", thus naming the three teachers. The school, which still stands today, but is used as an old persons' club, had, if I remember it rightly a plaque which stated that the school was erected and donated by one John Corballis Q.C. of Rosemount, Roebuck Rd. for the education of the boys of Donnybrook and Clonskea. This may explain why the site was not sold or included in the recent sale of Belleville. The building consisted of a main classroom of about 95 ft. long by 40 ft. wide. Entrance was gained via a hall about 15 ft. long by 10 ft. wide, two of the walls of which were festooned by hat racks. At the rear of the hall was a room in which there was a gallery. This room was about 15 ft. long by about 30 ft. wide and was entered by a door from the main classroom. The only heating was provided by a medium size firegrate sited in the main classroom, just in from the hall. The building was lofty and the inside roof had tie-bars so that what we might call the attic was part of the room. As the reader can imagine, the place was bitterly cold, particularly for the students who were confined to their desks. The teachers often wore their bicycle clips, overcoats and mufflers and used also stamp up and down during classes. Mr. Kelly, the head teacher, was a kindly, if exacting, man from the North who had no time for lazy or careless boys. His description of them was "Mammy's pet sitting beside the fire with a shawl round him". However, the treatment for a boy who was really ill was to put him upon a chair near the fire until his relatives called to take him home. Mr. Kelly was very much a creature of habit. Every time he passed "Ballinguile" he would note the position of the weathercock or insist that some boy who was passing should do so. I always did my best not to pass when Mr. Kelly was about as I was never too sure what it was all about and did not want to risk a telling off. To return to the school building, I should explain that there was a second large classroom, about 50 ft by 25 ft.. This was an extension built at right angles to the main classroom, I would say in the early 1900's. It was much more comfortable and had a fireplace ot its own. The flooring boards were smooth and not full of knots and holes like the main room. As regards writing, it was an era of slates and cutters. Perhaps I should explain the slate was truly a piece of natural slate about 8"by 5" and a quarter inch thick. The cutter was some other form of stone or hard slate and came in sticks about 5" by 3/16". It was extremely hard and very brittle. To break one was an offence requiring a very good explanation. In default one would receive a slap with a map pointer. The cutter, when new, had a sort of a point and, when properly used and turned when writing, this point was maintained. It provided not only a sharp noise but a white line on the slate. Thus we learned to write. Nothing was available to erase the writing, or part thereof, but "gob oil" i.e. spit, on the finger or cuff did the job. I remember my first lesson with Mr. Kelly. There was a large chart on the wall showing lots of different animals. Mr. Kelly pointed out the animals that would bite or eat you. Then he took his pointer and asked each member of the class in his northern accent "would e like you or would he eat you". Mr. Kelly's methods were excellent, as testified by the number of scholars and good citizens turned out by him. It must be remembered that most children went to work about 12 years of age and had to have an acceptable standard of education before that age.

During my years of attendance at school there was but one entertainment. We were told that those who wished to be entertained should bring a penny, or maybe a halfpenny, to school the following day. Next day those who paid gathered in the main room and a rather down at the heel man stood on the master's rostrum. After a few flattering words about the boys of Donnybrook, he produced a wooden ball with a piece of thin rope threaded through it. He held the ends of the rope, one in each hand, and told us he could make the ball do his bidding. By holding one hand higher than the other, and the rope taut, the ball on command passed from one side to the other. By a further command, altering the elevation and slackening the rope, the ball could be made to stop or proceed and that was it!

However, there was nothing that compared with the privilege of wheeling Mr. Kelly's bike into the schoolroom. It was much sought after. Mr. Kelly will be better understood as a kindly, just and correct teacher on the basis of one incident. A class mate of mine bearing a strong resemblance to me was observed to be tricking but Mr. Kelly continued the lesson. At the end, notwithstanding my protestations, he slapped me and made me kneel in the corner and pray for the "biggest" sinner in the school. When I had been kneeling for about 15 minutes he suddenly realized he had made a mistake. He gave the real offender additional punishment for not speaking up and apologized to me in front of the class and gave me one penny damages.

[Remaining sections to be added eventually: Holidays, Women & Pubs, Childrens' duties, Newspapers and pantos, Wakes, grannies, the quarry, More trams, Characters, Ghosts, The Dodder, The Monument, Games, St Annes, Rugby, Scouting, Excursions, Halloween, The Retreat, Christmas Bird, Carols, Wireless, Courting, etc.]

Footnote: My father, Laurence J. Lennan, was born on 18 Feb 1909 at 9 Herbert Ave., and lived from 1910 to the 1930s at 28 Harmony Villas, Donnybrook, later moving to Dundrum. He attended Donnybrook National School and, subsequently, Westland Row Christian Brothers' School. After working as a law clerk (and qualifying, in his spare time, as a Radio Engineer, with a shop for a period in Ranelagh), he joined the Irish Land Commission in the late forties. These are some extracts from his handwritten reminiscences of his time and place, probably sharpened by similar memories of his friends Myles Dungan and Joe Ennis. The era covered may be of interest to those with ancestors from the same area. Probably one of the last of that generation of "Donnybrook Boys", he died on 2 July 1994.

Index to surnames referenced (to date: 2/9/99)

181 surnames associated with the Donnybrook area are in the attached 11k pdf file with christian names/nicknames and chapter where the reference appears

Parish Priests

Of Donnybrook, Irishtown, Ringsend, Booterstown, Stillorgan, Kilmacud, Dundrum and part of Monkstown
1616 Rev. Cahill
1659 Unknown
1680 Rev. Patrick Gilmore
1728 Rev. Francis (Canon) Archbold
1729 Rev. Dr. Matthias (Canon) Kelly
1775 Rev. James (Canon) Nicholson

Of Donnybrook, Irishtown, Ringsend and Sandymount
1787 Rev. Peter Clinch
1792 Rev. Dr. Charles Joseph (Canon) Finn
1849 Rev. Dr. Andrew (Dean) O'Connell

Of Sacred Heart, Donnybrook
1876 Rev. Thomas McCormack
1879 Rev. Michael (Canon) Doyle
1880 Rev. Charles (Canon) Harris
1909 Rev. Pierce (Canon) Gossan
1915 Rt. Rev. Monsignor James J. Dunne, V.G.

Source: "History of Donnybrook Parish", Most Rev. N. Donnelly, P.P. op.cit.

1933 Auction of major property interests in Donnybrook

[Cover] Second Issue, Estate of the Right Hon. The Earl of Clonmell [Crest] Well Secured Ground Rents (mainly Fee Simple) arising out of Valuable Property in The City of Dublin to be Sold by Auction on Thursday, 22nd June, 1933

For further information and particulars apply to:- Messrs. Fred Sutton & Co., Solicitors having carriage of sale, 52 Dame Street, Dublin Messrs. Guinness & Mahon, Land Agents, 17 College Green, Dublin. Battersby & Co. Auctioneers, Dublin Established 1815

[Page 1] The Right Honourable the Earl of Clonmell Estate Situate at Donnybrook and Lower Leeson Street, all in the City of Dublin

Rental, Particulars and Conditions of Sale of Valuable Fee Farm Rents and Ground Rents and Profit Rent

To be Sold by Public Auction in 14 Lots by Messrs. Battersby & Company Auctioneers and Valuers at 39 Westmoreland Street, Dublin on Thursday, the 22nd day of June, 1933 at the hour of 2.30 o'clock

For further information and Particulars of Sale apply to: Messrs. Fred Sutton & Co., Solicitors having carriage of Sale, 52 Dame Street, Dublin. Messrs. Guinness & Mahon, Land Agents, 17 College Green, Dublin. Battersby & Co., Auctioneers, Dublin. Established 1815

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[page 3] Summary of particulars of lots for sale (For Details see pages 5 to 9 and Map at end). N.B.- Each lot is payable by one tenant.

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[page 5] Descriptive particulars

The property for sale consists of a number of valuable and well-secured Fee Farm Rents and Ground Rents situate and arising out of lands and hereditaments at or near Donnybrook, in the City of Dublin, and also a Profit Rent arising out of premises in Lower Leeson Street, in the City of Dublin. The security for these rents consists for the most part in up-to-date dwelling-houses in a popular and superior residential locality. The Vendor is the Right Hon. Dudley Alexander Charles 8th Earl of Clonmell, who is selling as tenant for life in possession of the property which forms part of his settled estates.

Lot 1. Fee Farm Rent of £83 1s. 7d. (less Poor Rate £3 9s. 0d., net £79 12s. 7d.), payable half-yearly, 1st May and 1st November, under Fee Farm Grant dated 12th August, 1879, made between the Right Honourable John Henry Reginald Scott Earl of Clonmell of the one part and Francis Norman of the other part (in lieu of a lease for lives renewable for ever dated 29th February, 1792, made between William Downes afterwards Lord Downes of the one part and the Reverend John Moore of the other part), and issuing out of the lands of Donnybrook, situate in the Parish of Donnybrook and City of Dublin, containing 8 acres 2 roods and 10 perches, or thereabouts, Statute Measure, with frontages to Belmont Avenue, Belmont Park, The Crescent and Floraville Road, and on which are situated the premises known as Nos. 1 to 17 Belmont Park, Nos. 2 and 2A Belmont Avenue, Magdalen Asylum Convent, Gate Lodge, Chapel, Nos. 1 to 4 Floraville Road, Nos. 4, 6 and 7 Lawlor's Court, and 21A Main Street, Donnybrook, Dublin; marked Number 1 on map attached hereto. The Government Valuation is £685 5s. 0d. The rent is paid by Messrs. J.L.Scallan & Co., Solicitors, of 25 Suffolk Street, Dublin.

Lot 2. Fee Farm Rent of £15 9s. 2d. (less Poor Rate 13s;, net £14 16s. 2d.), payable half-yearly on every 25th March and 29th September, under Fee Farm Lease for ever dated 23rd September, 1749, made between Robert Downes of the first part, the Right Honourable Robert Baron Newport of the second part, and the Right Honourable Robert Jocelyn of the third part, and issuing out of parts of the lands of Donnybrook known as Ballinguile, containing 4a. 3r. 0p., or thereabouts, Statute Measure, situate in the Parish of Donnybrook, City of Dublin, with frontages to Eglinton Road and Brookvale Road, on which are situated premises Nos. 1,3,5,7,9,11,13,15,17,17A,17B,17BB and No. 19 Eglinton Road, Donnybrook, Dublin; marked Number 2 on map attached hereto. The Government Valuation id £525 10s. 0d. The rent is paid by H.V.Bantry White, Esq., Solicitor, of 40 Westland Row, Dublin.

[page 6] Lot 3. Fee Farm Rent of £172 17s 2d;, abated to £158 9s 2d. (less Poor rate £4 16s 0 d., net £153 13s 2d;), payable half-yearly on every 25th March and 29th September , under lease for ever dated 29th April 1868 and made between the Right Honourable Anne Countess of Clonmell of the one part and Edward Wright, LL.D., of the other part, and issuing out of the premises known as Floraville, and other premises containing 8a. 2rd. 31p., Statute Measure, or thereabouts, situate at Donnybrook, Parish of St. Mary's, Donnybrook, and City of Dublin, with frontages to Eglinton Rd., Brookvale Rd., Harmony Avenue and Eglinton Park, on which are erected premises Nos. 2AI, 2A2, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2E,2F, 2G, 2H, 2J Eglinton Road, Nos 2 to 9 Brookvale Rd, Nos 1 to 31 Harmony Villas, Nos. 1 to 16 Eglinton Park, and Floraville House, Donnybrook; marked Number 3 on map attached hereto. The Government Valuation is £1104 5s. 0d. The rent is paid by Mrs. Mary Jane Farrell of Floraville, Donnybrook, Dublin.

Lot 4. Perpetual Yearly Fee Farm Rent of £44 0s 0d abated to £40 8s 0d. (less poor rate £1 16s 0d., net £38 12s. 0d.), payable for ever half-yearly on every 25th March and 29th September, under Fee Farm Grant dated 15th Sept 1858, made between the Right Honourable Ulysses Lord Downes of the one part and Edward Wright of the other part, and issuing out of several cottages and tenements, and the outhouses belonging, and the park and field situate at Donnybrook, and several pieces or parcels of land with the cottages thereon known as the Fair Green of Donnybrook, situate near the village of Donnybrook, situate in the Parish of St. Mary's, Donnybrook, Barony of Dublin and City of Dublin, containing 17a. 1r. 20p., Statute Measure, or thereabouts, with frontages to Brookvale Road, Eglinton Road, Main Road, Donnybrook; Floraville Road, Eglinton Terrace, on which are situated premises known as Nos. 10A, 10B, 10BA, 10D, 10E, 1A and 1B Brookvale Rd; 1F, 1E, 1D, 1C, 1B and 1A Eglinton Road; Nos.1 to 11 Eglinton Terrace; Nos. 5,8,9,10, and 11 Floraville Road, Donnybrook, Dublin; marked Number 4 on map attached hereto. The Government Valuation is £575 8s. 0d. The rent is paid by H.V.Bantry White, Esq., Solicitor, of 40 Westland Row, Dublin.

Lot 5. No. 8 Church Lane (now known as "The Crescent"), held in fee-simple, with frontage of 26 feet 4 inches and depth of 142 feet 7 inches, in the village of Donnybrook, being part of the lands of Donnybrook, Parish of Donnybrook and City of Dublin; marked 6 on the map attached hereto. Subject to an Indenture of Lease dated the 2nd day of October, 1929, and made between the Vendor of the first part, Frederick William Fane and Vivian Hugh Smith of the second part, and George Ganly of the third part, whereby the said premises were leased for the term of 150 years from the 1st day of May, 1929, at the yearly rent of £7, payable half-yearly, 1st May and 1st November. The Government Valuation is £20. The rent is paid by Mr. George Ganly, of No. 8 The Crescent, Donnybrook, Dublin.

[page 7] Lot 6. Plot of ground at Donnybrook, held in fee-simple; the said premises being known as Numbers 5,13 and 15 Church Lane, Donnybrook (now known as "The Crescent"), and are situate in the Parish of Saint Mary's and City of Dublin, with frontage of 214 feet 6 inches to The Crescent and average depth of 70 feet, on which are situate premises NoS. 3,5,7,9,11,13,15, and 17 The Crescent, Donnybrook, City of Dublin; marked Nos. 5 and 7 on map attached hereto. Subject to Indenture of Lease dated the 20th day of April, 1907, and made between the Right Honourable Rupert Charles Earl of Clonmell of the one part and James O'Connor of the other part, whereby the said premises were leased for the term of 99 years from the 1st day of March, 1907, at the yearly rent of £25 payable quarterly, 1st March, 1st June, 1st September and 1st December. The Government Valuation is £105. The rent is paid by Mr. Michael Fannin, of 11 Eglinton Terrace, Donnybrook, Dublin.

Lot 7. The houses and premises now known as Nos. 17, 17A and 19 Main Street, Donnybrook, held in fee-simple, with a frontage of 52 feet and a depth of 99 feet, being part of the lands of Donnybrook, situate in the Parish of Donnybrook and City of Dublin; marked 9 on map attached hereto. Subject to an indenture of Lease dated the 26th day of February,1926, and made between the Right Honourable Rupert Charles Earl of Clonmel of the one part and Peter Darcy of the other part, whereby the said premises were demised for the term of 99 years from the 29th day of September, 1925, at a yearly rent of £30, payable half-yearly on every 25th day of March and 29th day of September. The Government Valuation is £53. The rent is paid by Mr. Peter Darcy, of No. 17 Main Street, Donnybrook, Dublin.

Lot 8. A Rent of £40, payable half-yearly on every 25th March and 29th September under lease for ever dated the 2nd day of February, 1877, and made between the Right Honourable John Henry Reginald Earl of Clonmell of the one part and Michael Byrne of the other part, and issuing out of a plot of ground, orchard or garden, with the buildings thereon, situate at Donnybrook, in the Parish of Saint Mary's, Donnybrook, and City of Dublin, containing 2 acres 3 roods and 13 perches, Statute Measure, or thereabouts, with frontage to Belmont Avenue, on which are situated premises Nos. 6,8,10,12,14,16 and 18 Belmont Terrace, and St. Mary's Female National Schools, Donnybrook, Dublin; marked Number 10 on map attached hereto. Government Valuation, £219. This rent is paid by Miss Mary J. Dolan, of Belgrove, Seafield Road, Clontarf, Dublin.

Lot 9. No. 46 Donnybrook, with four cottages at the rere thereof, situate in the Parish of Donnybrook and City of Dublin; held in fee-simple, subject to an indenture of Lease dated the 25th day of March, 1889, and made between the Right Honourable the Earl of Clonmell of the one part and Patrick

[page 8] Shea of the other part, whereby the said premises, were demised for the term of 100 years from the 25th day of March, 1889, at the yearly rent of £35, payable quarterly on every 25th March, 25th June, 25th September and 25th December, subsequently reduced to £20 in consideration of the tenant having made an expenditure or outlay on the said premises. Marked Number 11 on map attached hereto. The Government Valuation is £50. The rent is paid by the National Bank, Ltd. (Pembroke Branch), of Upper Baggot Street, Dublin.

Lot 10. Plot of ground containing 2 roods and 17 perches, Statute Measure, or thereabouts, situate in the town of Donnybrook and City of Dublin, with frontage to Main Street and Dodder Row, on which are situated premises known as Nos. 30,32,34,36,36A,40,40A,40B,40C,42,44A,44B Main Street, and Nos. 1 to 5 Tracey's Cottages; marked Number 13 on map attached hereto. Held in fee-simple, subject to an Indenture of Lease dated the 24th day of March, 1841, and made between the Right Honourable Ulysses Lord Baron Downes of the one part and John Madden of the other part, whereby the said premises were demised for the term of 200 years from the 24th day of March, 1841, at the yearly rent of £35 14s. 4d. (adjusted to £33 17s. 10d.), payable half-yearly on every 25th March and 29th September. The Government Valuation is £305. The rent is paid by Messrs. James Adam & Sons, of No. 17 Merrion Row, Dublin.

Lot 11. All that dwellinghouse or shop, No. 21 Donnybrook Road, and also four houses adjoining, viz., Nos.23,25 and 27 Donnybrook Road and No. 1 Church Lane (now The Crescent), Donnybrook, with a frontage of 134 feet 7 inches and average depth of 52 feet 6 inches, situate in the Parish of Donnybrook and City of Dublin; marked Number 14 on map attached hereto. Held in fee-simple, subject to an Indenture of Lease dated the 20th day of May, 1891, and made between the Right Honourable John Henry Reginald Earl of Clonmell of the one part and Patrick Shea of the other part, whereby the said premises were demised for the term of 98 years from the 25th day of March, 1891, at the yearly rent of £50 (less Poor Rate £1 10s. 0d., net £48 10s. 0d.), payable quarterly on every 25th March, 25th June, 25th September and 25th December. The Government Valuation is £75 10s. 0d. The rent is paid by Wm. McEvoy, Esq., of Muckross, Stillorgan Park, County Dublin.

Lot 12. Part of the lands of Donnybrook, which said premises are now known as Nos. 1,3,5,7,9,11,13, and 15 Main Street, Donnybrook, and are situate in the Parish of Saint Mary's and City of Dublin; marked Number 15 on map attached hereto. Held in fee-simple, subject to an Indenture of Lease dated the 24th day of August, 1847, and made between the Right Honourable Ulysses Lord Baron Downes of the one part and John White of the other part,

[page 9] whereby the said premises were demised for the term of 100 years from the 29th day of September, 1904, at the yearly rent of £21 1s. 1d., payable half-yearly on every 25th March and 29th September. The Government valuation is £73. The rent is paid by Mrs. Margaret White of 33 Rathgar Road, Dublin.

Lot 13. Plot of land situateon the west and east side of Church Lane (now known as "The Crescent"), Donnybrook, in the Parish of Saint Mary's and City of Dublin, and containing 3 roods and 9 perches, or thereabouts, Statute Measure, on which are situated Nos. 10 and 12 The Crescent, Laundry Premises and St. Mary Magdalen's Asylum; marked Number 16 on map attached hereto. Held in fee-simple, subject to an Indenture of Lease dated the 24th day of March, 1841, and made between the Right Honourable Ulysses Lord Baron Downes of the one part and John Madden of the other part, whereby the said premises were demised for the term of 200 years from the 25th day of March, 1841, at the yearly rent of £35 14s. 4d., payable half-yearly on every 25th March and 29th September. The Government Valuation is £111 10s. 0d. The above rent is paid by the Superioress, Donnybrook Convent, Donnybrook.

Lot 14 Profit rent of £12 15s.2d., payable out of Nos. 6 and 7 Lower Leeson Street, being part of the lands of Michins Mantle, situate in the Parish of Saint Peter and City of Dublin, which said premises are held by the Vendor under Fee Farm Grant dated the 8th of March, 1855, made between the Right Honourable Joseph Earl of Miltown of the one part, and the Right Honourable John Henry Earl of Clonmell of the other part, subject to a yearly rent of £22 17s. 10d. By Fee Farm Grant dated the 12th day of November, 1901, and made between Rupert Charles Earl of Clonmell of the one part and John T. Cartan of the other part, the said Earl of Clonmell granted the said premises to John T. Cartan, his heirs and assigns in fee farm, subject to the yearly Fee Farm Rent of £36 18s. 6d. The rent now receivable by the Vendor out of these premises is £35 13s. 0d. after deduction of £1 5s. 6d. for Poor Rate. The Government Valuation is £79. The rent is paid by Mr. John Ryan, of Nos. 6 and 7 Lower Leeson Street, Dublin.

[Pages 10 to 14] contain the "General Conditions of Sale" Only some extracts are reproduced below:

"6. The Vendor shall, within ten days after the date of the sale, deliver to each purchaser, or his Solicitor, an Abstract of Title to the Lot purchased by him. Such Abstract shall commence with an Indenture of Settlement, dated 29th April, 1899, made between The Right Hon. Rupert Charles 7th Earl of Clonmell, of the first part, Thomas Boone Nelson, of the second part, The Right Hon. Lucy Maria Countess of Clonmell and Frederick William Fane, of the third part, and the Vendor of the fourth part, and the Title to the property ofered for sale shall commence with the said Settlement, and earlier title shall not be called for. No objection or requisition shall be made in respect of the title prior to the respective date aforesaid, whether appearing in any Abstracted document or otherwise. A copy of the said Settlement of 29th April, 1899, certified by the Vendor's Solicitors will be handed to each Purchaser.

7. The property for sale consists of portion of the family estates of the Vendor (known as "the Clonmell Estate") and is held under the same title as certain lands in the County of Carlow, which have been sold under the provisions of the Irish Land Acts..... ....

12. No objection or requisition shall be made on the ground that the counterparts of the Fee Farm Lease and Leases referred to in Lots 2,10 and 12 respectively do not appear to have been registered in the Registry of Deeds nor on the ground that the said counterpart Fee Farm Lease does not appear to have been stamped. The counterpart Sub Fee Farm Grant, dated the 12th day of November, 1901, Earl of Clonmell to John T Cartan (Lot 14) is believed to have been lost or destroyed, and the Purchaser shall make no objection or requisition on the ground that the same is not forthcoming, nor shall he require the same to be produced, but an attested copy of the Memorial of such Sub Fee Farm Grant will be handed to the Purchaser of such Lot. 13. The Vendor has lodged a Requisition for a Negative Search in the Registry of Deeds Office on the Index of Names only for Acts by - The Rt. Hon. Rupert Charles Earl of Clonmell, from the 29th day of April, 1899, to the 18th day of November, 1928 by Frederick William Fane, from 29th April, 1899, to 12th March, 1933, by the Rt. Hon. Lucy Maria Countess of Clonmell, from the 29th day of April, 1899 to the 7th day of July, 1909, by Vivian Hugh Smith, from the 24th day of June, 1908, to the date of the certificate thereon, by the Vendor, from 18th November, 1928, to the date of the Certificate thereon."

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[page 16] Memorandum of Agreement ....... ...the Vendor, the Right Hon. Dudley Alexander Charles 8th Earl of Clonmell.....

Map annexed - 9 foolscap page size. Scale: Five feet to one statute mile. Drawn by Henry J. Lyons, F.R.I.B.A., Architect and Civil Engineer, 14 South Frederick Street, Dublin, 18/2/33.

[Rear cover] Battersby & Co. 1815-1933: "Some noteworthy transactions". Long list of Residential Property and Estates, Prominent Business Premises, Hotels, Theatres and Cinemas, and Industrial Premises auctioned

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